Following a stay with his wife and children at Elsa’s Kopje this summer, Will tells us about how Elsa’s Kopje exceeded expectations for all the family.
How is Meru National Park from a photographer’s perspective
I have always been drawn to off the beaten track locations, where you can escape the crowds and feel immersed in a remote wilderness. I found not only that in Meru but also abundant wildlife, beautiful light and scenery that provided a spectacular backdrop for my photographs. Around almost every corner I encountered delightful vistas… giraffe beneath a grove of towering palms, elephants in a clearing with a formidable kopje behind, a kingfisher or heron beside one of the many pretty streams that flow through the park. It is this scenic context that infuses every photograph taken in Meru and makes it such a special and rewarding place for photographers.
You were visiting Elewana Elsa’s Kopje with the aim of capturing images of big cats, how were these sightings
In just a few days we found lions on a couple of occasions, and a leopard lounging in the branches of a tree. That would be considered pretty good going in some of Kenya’s better-known wildlife reserves. The quietness of the National Park also means you will often be on your own at sightings which makes for a much more rewarding experience.
The conditions in Meru can make it challenging to get a clear photo as the bush can be quite thick and you cannot drive off-road in the National Park. The upside is that the vegetation affords the opportunity to frame subjects and capture images that are more interesting than those taken in the open savannah.
How was your general game viewing experience in Meru National Park
I had heard that Meru’s wildlife had been almost wiped out by poaching in the 70s and 80s, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. On entering the park, however, I was thrilled to find abundant wildlife, in particular lots of elephant, giraffe, buffalo and antelope. There was also a bewildering diversity of birdlife. One section of the park is the rhino sanctuary and we spotted white rhino whenever we ventured into it. We found cats on several occasions, but an even bigger highlight for me was a daylight encounter with a striped hyena which is not common at all. Overall, Meru is an inspiring example of how wildlife can rebound with good management and a bit of time.
You were travelling with your family; how do you feel Elewana Elsa’s Kopje is set up for younger children
Yes, my family often joins me on safari, and they loved Elsa’s. To start with, the room blew their minds! It was built into the side of the kopje and one entire wall was a bare rockface which they found rather exciting. They also enjoyed getting to know the family of rock hyraxes that lived just outside our front door.
The kids loved learning about the lioness, Elsa, and the whole Born Free story. We showed them the film just before our trip, so they were very excited to be treading in Elsa’s footsteps.
Of course, whether you’re an adult or a child, a highlight of any stay at Elsa’s is the beautiful pool with that spectacular view out over Meru! Afternoon swims were a great way to break up the game drives and allow the kids to burn off some energy.
Finally, the staff in camp were wonderful and made our stay very special for the kids.
What were the main highlights from your stay
In addition to the striped hyena sighting mentioned above, two other experiences come to mind…
On the first afternoon, in a glade with Elsa’s Kopje in the background, we watched as several bull elephants came to drink and splash in a small stream. The sun was setting behind the mountains, bathing everything in warm light. It was a timeless scene and a wonderful introduction to Meru.
We spent one morning driving to the remotest corner of the park, where Meru borders Kora National Park. Enroute, we crossed the equator and passed through many miles of wilderness. Our destination was Adamson’s Falls on the Tana River. Just below the falls we crossed an old bridge and passed a lonely ranger station. We spotted a crocodile lounging on a sandbar and walked to the edge of the falls where the water thunders between the rocks. It felt very wild and remote! We had a memorable picnic lunch beside the falls before heading back to Elsa’s Kopje.
What advice do you have for amateur photographers trying to capture images of their safari
After taking the frame-filling portrait, zoom out and try to show animals in the environment. Every safari location is different and by giving your photos context you can differentiate them from those taken elsewhere. Using elements of the habitat and landscape to frame your subject can also make for much more interesting compositions.
You can read the full interview with Will in the current issue of Travel Africa Magazine
